Food reviews

I read New York magazine on occasion, often to peruse the latest and greatest food reviews (among other things). I like reading about food, because food is like possibility. There always is this kind of chance that you could go out that particular evening (any evening) and eat a sumptuous sensuous dinner. Granted, I can't afford most of the places that show up between those particular glossy pages. But on occasion a locale pops out. For instance, pizza. This is something that I can most definitely afford as a meal, and the place reviewed was near enough to make the slight trip worthwhile, as it was billed as one of the best pies in the city. That's some pretty high talk for a city of this size. Particularly one with a claim to fame -- New York Style pizza. The location: Franny's, on Flatbush Avenue bordering Park Slope and Prospect Heights (I believe...maybe Fort Greene).

Franny's has a nice plate glass window with bright orange lettering on it to identify it. Once inside, we were told that we would have a fifteen minute wait to sit at a table. Sitting at a counter by the window was immediate. We chose to go immediately and were given the delightful vantage point of the people walking by. And the parked cars on the street, too. It only takes about 1:21 for a car to take an empty parking space, according to some very unscientific calculations. But, anyway, on to dinner. We ordered a sun-gold tomato crostini and a basil pesto ricotta pizza to split between the two of us. Franny's claim to fame, I suppose, is its insistence on sustainable foodstuffs -- using local suppliers, organic whenever possible (I believe). The crostini was amazing. The sweetness of the tomato was tempered with a perfect splash of a very rich olive oil and a not too sharp balsamic vinegar. The crostini itself was crisp and chewy and still warm as it arrived. I could've eaten a tray full of these and probably been completely sated with the meal. The service was friendly and attentive, even for us losers at the spare counter top. The atmosphere, though, was a bit too loud. It seemed more like a bar that served pizzas, in some ways (as my dining partner claimed). Not a great first date spot, truth be told. And with a decent location and a positive review, business will probably be very good for the forseeable future. If you can hack the noise factor, though, the design of the room is rather nice and clean. Angular lines and brick walls.

But, yes, the pizza. The reason for coming. I have to admit, it was good. But it wasn't that good. The basil pesto tasted very mild, relying on the natural essence of the basil to power it, instead of covering it up with garlic (as so many pestos seem to do). The effect was quite lovely and natural, without burning the taste buds out. The ricotta was a beautiful rich and mellow counterpoint to the tang of the pesto. And the crust was flavored well with the coal oven taste. But, it's texture and consistency left a little something to be desired. It was neither the super thin, crisp traditional Italian pie style, nor was it the NY doughy slab. The middle was wafer thin, but the edge crust was beyond doughy, especially when it should've been crisper. Overall, I was a little let down, perhaps by expectations. But, it was some very fresh and tasty food (I was a little surprised that no "normal" salad was offered on the menu, but maybe the kitchen is too small to deal with that), though not the best pie I've ever had. Nor, probably, the best in the city. Maybe not even the best in Brooklyn. Hopefully, I'll find out who deserves that title, soon enough.

I recommend the ice cream shop (that seems like a deserted candy store from the outside) a few doors down. Wow. That's some tasty gelato that they had. And a very friendly scooper, too. I'm heading back there for ice cream again...I can feel it.